The day after "Shark Day" was "Whale Day". We knew it was nearing the end of the whale migration season.
Humpback whales travel from near the equator toward the poles for the summer during this time of year. There had also been a lot of talk on the boat about whales and we'd heard rumors of recent whale sightings. There was a chance that we might see something.
The first indication of whales in the area came from a couple of
Remora sightings. Soon after that we started to hear whale song during dives. Hearing whale song sounds underwater is an eerie and mysterious experience. It surrounds you from every direction and you know the whales must be close.
At this point in the week, it felt like we were far from land (you couldn't see it from any direction) near a sand bar called "West Sand Spit". I recorded the location on my GPS, and it's shown below by the yellow marker:
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I was on the sundeck soaking up some sun between dives when the whales were spotted. Someone on the boat shouted "Whales!" for the second or third time of the trip and we all jumped up and began scanning the surrounding water to catch a glimpse of them. On this particular occasion, they where easy to see: two whales several hundred yards (or more) away from the boat, their dorsal fins routinely breaking the surface as they moved. I'm not quite sure how it happened, but within minutes I found myself perched on the edge of the small tender boat racing toward the whales.
The "tender" was a small (~16ft) RIB (rubber inflatable boat) with outboard motor that the main ship towed behind us as we traveled. A
tender is typically used to
attend to larger boats, or is used for for communication and transportation between ship and shore. Well, in this case there were 6 eager divers on board clinging to straps in hot pursuit of the whales. Somehow most of us had managed to grab our fins, masks and cameras before jumping into the little boat.
Once out on the water it was hard to keep a fix on where exactly the whales were. We'd slow down periodically and scan the water around us trying to catch sight of them, then we'd adjust course and head towards the whales again, trying to get closer each time. After a few minutes of this we got pretty close and the tender was almost alongside of them. Joe shutdown the engine and for a second we looked at him as if wondering what happens next. "Go for it" he shouted, and without needing any more encouragement, we all dove (or more accurately fell) overboard into the deep blue water.
Photo courtesy of John PierceWe were free diving now, that's with just our fins and masks, and we could only stay down as long as we could hold our breath. John shot the photo above as I dove down hoping to catch a glimpse of the whales. At a length of 40-60ft they would be an impressive sight underwater.
Unfortunately on this occasion we were too slow (or in the wrong place) and they remained elusive to us. We clambered back into the tender, still high from the excitement of coming so close. But it was not over yet, we'd give it another shot. Someone must have seen them, because we were off again, increasing the distance between us and the ship, trying to get close enough to see the whales.
Once again, we did get close, the tender was almost alongside them. We reduced our speed and saw them clearly. This time however, we didn't even have time to enter the water. One at a time, each of the two whales showed us their tail fins as they began a deep dive downwards far out of our reach.
Photo courtesy of John PierceWe knew this signaled the end of our adventure and slowly turned back towards the main ship again, which was now almost a mile away.
Later in the week we saw more whale activity from a distance and heard lots more whale-song underwater, but there's nothing quite like chasing (following) 40ft whales in a 16th tender.