Alaska - Google Earth Tour

This movie is a Google Earth Tour showing the GPS tracks we made during our kayaking trip to Alaska. Each different track color is a different day. In total we paddled over 100 miles.

If you have Google Earth installed, you can view the tracks (and markers) yourself by downloading the KML file.

There's also a version that can be viewed in Google Maps (link opens in a new window). And a larger selection of photos from the trip.

And finally, there is the complete set of Alaska Blog Posts, although be warned: it’s a lot of reading. :-)

Alaska - Day 10

On the morning of the last day we woke earlier than usual so that we could get all our gear packed up and ready to go before Captain Mike was due at 9am. We had used the satellite phone the night before to make sure he hadn’t forgotten us and was planning to meet us as arranged. As it turned out, he arrived earlier than expected at about 8am, which led to slight panic because we weren’t ready to go yet. It seemed though, that he just came early to join us for breakfast, and he was definitely surprised by how good the fresh salmon omelet that he was handed tasted.

After breakfast, we packed up the remaining gear, put out the campfire for the last time, and loaded the boat. We pushed back from the beach that we’d become familiar with, and with the boat's wake behind us, we left the wilderness and made our way back to Whittier.

In Whittier, we were met by the owner of the Kayak rental center and he transported us back to the warehouse which was across town - about 5 minutes away from the marina. After sorting out our gear once more, returning our rental equipment, and rediscovering soap in the outhouse, we went back to the marina to settle up with Captain Mike. In his café/shop/office, we also bought souvenir maps, drinks, and a snack. We were on our way back to the real world now. Next we headed for the showers at the harbor master's building – and that felt pretty good after 10 days of roughing it. After showering, we rushed towards the tunnel, and in the nick of time, made it through as one of the last cars.

On the way back to Anchorage, we stopped again to watch the Beluga whales and then at Andy and Wendy’s friend's house in Bird Creek. We made one more stop to pick up sandwiches before Andy and Wendy dropped us off at the airport. Check-in involved moving items between bags to redistribute weight, and then we headed to the gate (without seat assignments). The flight was completely full and a little bit hectic. We also found out that some recent volcanic activity in the Aleutian Islands was blowing ash and causing quite a bit of disruption. Fortunately we got good seats and left Anchorage on time. Brad, whose flight was after ours, wasn’t so lucky.

After a night of traveling we arrived back home and began adjusting back to normal life.

Alaska - Day 9

Day 9 was to be our last full day of padding. After the mammoth day we’d put in on Day 8, it was on all of our minds that we only had to paddle 12.5 miles in order to reach the 100 mile mark. We packed up camp at Pakenham Point and loaded our boats for the last time.

As usual, the tide was going out as we were preparing to pack up. So to load our boats, we carried them closer to the water and placed them on log rafters to keep them off the sharp rocks and barnacles while we shoved all our gear through the hatches and into the far reaches of the compartments. We were all feeling like there was stuff missing from our individual assortment of bags which we could only attribute to all the food we’d eaten over the past week. The sun was out in full force and made the process of packing the boats hot work.

The plan for the day was to cross College Fjord, then head south into Esther Passage, before returning to “Boat Beach”, the same beach we’d started from and where Captain Mike was scheduled to pick us up from the next day.

While making the 2 mile crossing across the fjord, the hot, sunny weather gradually turned cloudier and we even felt some spots of rain. We saw a lot of fish jumping during the crossing, which seemed like a good sign for those hoping to land one. After we completed the crossing, we soon found a lunch spot, close to the same spot where we’d been on earlier in the week when we’d been heading in the opposite direction. Andy and Brad both got out their fishing rods, but fishing from shore proved fruitless.

After lunch it started raining as we made our way across to a small bay that looked like an interesting feature on the map. We found a large group of fish that were jumping (video here) and Brad got out his fishing rod to try his luck. There were a few close calls, but the fish all managed to work their way off the hook before they could be reeled in. Then he landed a big one, and with Brad holding his rod with both hands, the fish started pulling his kayak along... fortunately Andy and Wendy where close by with the net to help him out.

We continued on our way and after stopping at a stream to replenish our water, we reached the entrance to Esther Passage. Fresh bear tracks were seen once again. We began paddling into the pass to clock up our mileage before turning around and heading to the pick-up beach which was just around the next point. I think we where all getting a bit tired at this point and I was being asked with increasing frequency to check my GPS to see how many miles we’d done. Eventually we reached the turn around point from which point we would safely paddle a total of over 100 miles by the time the day was over.

It was properly raining by the time we reached the fjord again. The passage had been sheltered and the water relatively calm. In comparison, the conditions in the fjord were not. We needed to make our way around the point to the beach where we were going to spend the night, but we faced large waves and torrential rain. Andy and Wendy were a good distance ahead and led the way. In rough water you don’t want the waves to hit your boat side-on as they could easily tip (or flip) you over that way. For this reason, and due to the rough water and large waves, we had to paddle out in a straight line (almost perpendicular to the waves) into the fjord a good distance before making a 90 degree turn in the direction we actually wanted to go in. Even so, we were in rough water and it only takes one big wave to catch you unaware before you and your boat are upside down in icy, cold, stormy water. Erin, Brad, and I kept in close proximity as the rain got heaver and we made our way slowly around the point.

The rain was heavy and wet, and the waves were crashing against the stones on the beach when we arrived. As soon as I was out of my boat, I rushed under a close-by tree to put on my full set of heavy-duty rain gear. Then we scrambled to secure the boats, before going about setting up camp. We roped up the large black tarps between trees to cover our tents, and the rain eased up. We retrieved some firewood we’d stashed to start a fire as the rain eased some more. After dinner we tried to dry off by the fire before turning-in for our last night in the wilderness.

Alaska - Day 8

Our 8th day on the water brought our 3rd morning of sunshine and it was spectacular! Andy and I were the first out of our tents and were lucky enough to spot a loan whale cruising by our campsite. We only caught two brief glimpses as the whale surfaced twice for air before diving deep. Unfortunately, not enough time to get our fellow campers out of bed.

Our campsite on Pakenham Point was one of the best. It boasted unbelievable 360º views, an endless supply of firewood, and smooth rocks perfect for tent sites and lounging around the fire. It was also the perfect place from which to mount a day trip to Harriman Fjord, a fjord further to the west and home to Harriman glacier, Barry glacier, and Cascade glacier – just to name a few. We enjoyed a leisurely and delicious breakfast and then prepared for a day trip up to Harriman Fjord.

After paddling almost 3.5 miles into a stiff wind, we stopped at a small, sun-warmed beach for a bio-break. We hadn’t planned on staying for lunch, but the beach was very comfortable and after the passing wake of a tour boat caused some excitement and led to me having one wet foot, we decided to stay for lunch. Our relaxing lunch on the warm beach almost turned into an even more relaxing nap, but another tour boat zoomed by and we rushed to get the boats into the water before the waves from the wake arrived.

We reached the fjord and turned into the shorter arm toward Barry glacier. There was a lot of activity in this area – glacial, animal, and human. Though not as large as Harvard, Barry glacier was much more active with near continuous calving. Along with its roar of thunder, every fallen piece of ice set off a ripple of waves. When we entered the arm, we spotted three porpoises making their way through the ice and Dan headed off in pursuit. As we watched all of the activity, a helicopter flew into the fjord and along the glacier. What a way to put things in perspective! The helicopter looked like a tiny red toy compared to the dramatic face of the glacier.

Another group of kayakers was camped on the beach next to Barry glacier and we headed in that direction as it was the only good option for a much needed bio-break. From the sandy beach, we had an excellent view of the falling ice and surging waves and had to plan our departure accordingly to miss some of the bigger swells. As we were headed back out of the fjord, a porpoise came up right next to Dan’s kayak! Incredible!

When we started back, we had already paddled nine miles, so we knew it was going to be a long trip back to camp. As we headed out of the fjord, a storm came in over the mountains. Very quickly it became dark and soon after it started to rain. We pulled on our rubber rain gear and began the nine mile paddle back to camp. Our good weather charm held and the storm blew over quickly. Within an hour the sky had started to clear but it remained windy and the water was choppy. After a quick stop at the lunch beach to refill on water, we paddled the final three miles to camp.

What a day! We had paddled a total of 18.5 miles, but happily came home to a warm, comfortable, and mostly dry campsite with more dry wood than we knew what to do with. We quickly got a fire going, and before we knew it, we were happily eating lentil soup and warming our toes by the fire. Not a bad way to end an epic day…….

Alaska - Day 7

Incredibly, the morning of day seven greeted us with more sunshine and crystal clear views in every direction. Harvard and Yale glaciers were clearly visible at the upper end of the Fjord and Wellesley glacier towered over our campsite. You could still hear the occasional rumble as ice from the glaciers fell down the steep slopes and into the water.

We took our time enjoying breakfast and packing up camp. By the time we were ready to begin loading the boats, it was well on its way to low tide. While this campsite had beautiful views, it also had a long flat, rocky beach and as the tide went out the waterline moved farther and farther from camp. This wouldn’t have been so bad if it had been a nice clean, rocky beach, but this beach was covered in sharp rocks, covered in even sharper barnacles topped off with a nice slimy coating of seaweed and sea scum. In other words, not the best place to pile up gear and pack boats. With this in mind, Andy suggested an alternate approach – we could pack the boats near camp and then gently carry them down to the water. This is not generally advised as fiber glass kayaks are very fragile, but by placing straps under the heaviest sections of the boat and lifting at four points, it is somewhat less precarious. Unfortunately, this does not make the gear or the boats weigh any less, and when the boats are fully packed, they are heavy. In the long run, this approach made packing the boats much easier, but moving them down to the water…. Ugh!

Once we did finally make it on to the water, we set off at a leisurely pace heading south. Midway through the morning, Andy unveiled his morning construction project – a kayak sail! Dad and Dan quickly joined in and rafted up with the double to create a kayak trimaran. I paddled alongside because the sailing endeavor clearly required photo documentation.

Unfortunately, it was not a very windy day, so the sailing speed (1-3mph) barely surpassed the speed of the tidal current (1-3mph). During lunch, the engineering team made some modifications to the sail and a second attempt was made. For a moment, it almost felt like the wind would cooperate and the sailors would coast off down the Fjord, but alas the day remained hot, sunny, and calm.

We spent the afternoon paddling on calm water into the hot sun. As it moved into late afternoon, we began thinking about where we would stop for the night. We had already gone about 10 miles, and pretty quickly, we decided to continue making our way to Pakenham Point - another 5 miles down the Fjord. We were making good time and figured that we could get there in another hour and a half to two hours. It might have ended up taking a little bit longer, but it was worth it!

We found a beautiful campsite on a long rocky peninsula that juts out into the Sound at Pakenham point. Everyone was a bit tired out after our 14.9 mile paddle - it was after all our longest day yet - but we were also getting pretty good at setting up camp and we had plenty of water with us (in the form of glacial ice). So it wasn't long before we were all relaxing around a roaring fire and enjoying tasty black bean soup followed by biscuits, tea, and bed......