22 December 2008

Snow Storm

December continues to be a month of excessive weather. Over the past weekend we received approximately 12 inches of snow, probably more. The storm began on Friday, briefly eased on Saturday, and then continued into Sunday.

Of course the driveway was a challenge throughout. We made several attempts at clearing snow, but in the end, I think the storm got the better of us (this time).

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The snow has finally stopped, the sun is shining, but temperatures remain below freezing. That's leading to icy conditions as the snow melts in the sun before refreezing. On a positive note we managed to fit in some excellent snow-shoeing and even some sledding.

13 December 2008

Torrential Rain

After 5 inches of rain in three days, the brook was close to overflowing and new streams were washing through the woods. These photos were taken soon after the rain stopped.





07 December 2008

First Snow

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Snow! A couple of hours worth of snowfall during the night left 1-2 inches on the ground this morning. Not a huge amount, but just enough to cover everything in a white blanket that really makes it look like winter outside.

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It was just enough snow to practice with the snowplough (where lessons were learned). But not enough for Erin to try out the sled on the hill.

I'm sure it's only a mater of time.

23 November 2008

Glacier Quest DVD


I'm pleased to announce that production of the Glacier Quest 2008 DVD is well underway. It's due to be released by the end of the year, but some of you may be lucky enough to get a preview before then.

16 November 2008

Tractor Snow Blade

Here are the pieces to my latest tractor attachment after opening the the box and laying them out:

It's the 48" Craftsman Snow Blade, Model No. 486.24483. It took most of the day to assemble (including about an hour spent looking for a small part that I'd lost). Now we just need some snow to test it.

We might even be able to persuade Erin to shoot a movie of it in action.

19 October 2008

Fall Colors

The fall colors are officially here and quickly blowing away!





17 October 2008

12 October 2008

Bulbs, bulbs and more bulbs...

In preparation for a beautiful display of spring flowers, I spent the weekend planting daffodil bulbs, iris bulbs, and daylilies. With 100 daffodils, 100 irises, and over a dozen daylilies, this project called for a lot of digging! After pick-axing 50 holes into the rocky soil and digging up buckets of rocks, everything is neatly planted and ready for spring.

Check back for pictures of the finished product in April!

05 October 2008

Google Earth Satellites


Ever wondered how many satellites there are orbiting the earth? This video from the Google Earth blog, shows 13,000 of them. You can also download the KML file to view them yourself (in real-time).

Looks like it's getting crowded up there.

01 October 2008

Driveway In Action - Part 2


Back by popular demand is The Driveway In Action. This sequel to the original post (Part 1) shows the the tail end of another short storm that passed through this morning. Once again, keep a look out for potential drainage problems.

25 September 2008

New Flowerbed

One of the projects we've been working on in recent weeks is the creation of a new flower bed alongside the driveway near the garage as seen here:

Erin has been looking for a new place to plant things and this seemed like a good location - good sunlight, size, and on show for people arriving at the house. Erin has also spend some time recently researching landscape design and well as plant and flower types. We came up with a rough layout for the new plantings seen here:

It's currently a work in progress. Erin has already transplanted 7 daylilies, and last weekend we transplanted several peonies. This is how it looks right now:

Watch this space for an update in the coming weeks.

24 September 2008

Tractor Wheels

As part of preparing for the inevitable arrival of winter, I want to make sure my tractor is ready for action in the snow. This usually calls for the addition of wheel weights and snow chains to increase the traction of the rear wheels.

Since I’m not an especially heavy person, I already added wheel weights some time ago. The weights for my tractor add an additional 35lbs (or 2.5 stone) to each wheel. This increases traction (reducing wheel-spin) and lowers the center of gravity - which in turn increases stability and reduces the rollover risk while mowing on our hill and is why I already have them.

For snowy conditions I’ll need even more traction, which is usually where snow chains come in to play. However, I don’t want to use chains for fear of them damaging our new (and expensive) driveway. So instead, and after some research, I ordered a new pair of tires (for the tractor of course).

The standard issue tires that came on the tractor are a "turf saver" variety that are intended to minimize damage to peoples well kept (flat) lawns. Well, I decided that I needed pair of real tractor tires, and ordered the some "super lugs", seen below on the left.

Check out those lugs! I had the new tires put onto my original rims, but eventually I’d like get the old tires put on a spare pair of rims, so they can easily be used as well. I’ve been using the new tires for the past couple of weeks and they are great. As you might expect, they're a little bit bumpier than the old ones (so no more zooming down the driveway at full speed), but the traction is far improved - meaning I can go places where I couldn’t go before.

Now we just need some snow, to put them to the real test.

21 September 2008

Weekend Statistics

Phew! The mountain of dirt that was blocking our driveway has been moved - one shovel load at a time. Needless to say, it was quite a busy weekend. Here are the statistics:
Dirt moved:8 cubic yards
(17,280 lbs or 8.64 tons)
Dirt loaded and unloaded:30 cart loads
Trips up and down the driveway:lots
Tractor hours:~4 hours
Grass seeds spread:~9000 seeds
Burlap laid:750 square feet
Peonies dug up:3
Peonies planted:6
Rocks collected while digging:lots
Mountain Dew consumed (by Dan):6 cans (1,020 calories)
Man hours worked:34 hours

And that leaves us with 2 tired-out people.

18 September 2008

More Dirt

Guess what?! We’re moving dirt again. We just can’t get enough of the stuff. Here’s a photo of this mornings delivery:

The plan for the weekend looks like this:
  1. Prepare the target areas by raking and leveling.
  2. Distribute cart loads 1-10 to the rock side of the driveway.
  3. Distribute cart loads 11-16 to the pole side of the driveway.
  4. Distribute cart loads 17-18 to the top of the driveway.
  5. Over-seed the edge of the driveway on the hill.
  6. Spread cart loads 19-22 lightly over the seeded areas.
  7. See how much is left, move cart loads 23-30 to holding area.
  8. Seed and burlap the new areas.
And somehow we have to fit in transplanting peonies, cutting grass, and working on the new flowerbed.

Sounds like fun!

Tractor Bushing

It's been a while since I came across a good website, so I thought I'd mention one that I found earlier this week. The story starts with my tractor... the problem is that I've been using it to pull a variety of heavy attachments and the hole in the hitch plate is getting worn.

I inquired about this over on the My Tractor Form ("The Friendliest Tractor Forum on the web") and they quickly suggested that I needed to install a bushing to prevent further wear. That sounded like exactly what I needed, but the trouble was I didn't know where I could get such a specific part. After another post, one helpful response pointed me to the McMaster-Carr website, and this is the one that I'm impressed with.

I was searching for a specific size of flanged bushing (or bearing), and after typing "flanged bushing" into the search box I was lead to a page where I could efficiently select the dimensions I required:

The dimension most important to me was OD (Outside Diameter) as it needed to fit snugly into the hitch hole. After selecting 5/8", I was also able to select the other dimensions and type of material, etc. It felt like I was effectively "building" my specific part from scratch. I'd recommend trying it, but doubt you'll find it as impressive as I did. Anyway, I placed the order at around 10pm on Monday evening, it was shipped at 8am on Tuesday morning would have arrived on Wednesday (if I hadn't entered the wrong zip code - but that's beside the point).

I think the site is very good for a parts ordering website. It's straight to the point functionality makes searching and ordering one of almost half a million specific parts a breeze. It's one of the better designed websites that I've seen, so kudos to them, and I can't wait to order my next part. :)

16 September 2008

Red Spotted Newt

A red spotted newt on our driveway:

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These little guys seem to be everywhere at this time of year!

12 September 2008

Alaska - Google Earth Tour



This movie is a Google Earth Tour showing the GPS tracks we made during our kayaking trip to Alaska. Each different track color is a different day. In total we paddled over 100 miles.

If you have Google Earth installed, you can view the tracks (and markers) yourself by downloading the KML file.

There's also a version that can be viewed in Google Maps (link opens in a new window). And a larger selection of photos from the trip.

And finally, there is the complete set of Alaska Blog Posts, although be warned: it’s a lot of reading. :-)

Alaska - Day 10

On the morning of the last day we woke earlier than usual so that we could get all our gear packed up and ready to go before Captain Mike was due at 9am. We had used the satellite phone the night before to make sure he hadn’t forgotten us and was planning to meet us as arranged. As it turned out, he arrived earlier than expected at about 8am, which led to slight panic because we weren’t ready to go yet. It seemed though, that he just came early to join us for breakfast, and he was definitely surprised by how good the fresh salmon omelet that he was handed tasted.

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After breakfast, we packed up the remaining gear, put out the campfire for the last time, and loaded the boat. We pushed back from the beach that we’d become familiar with, and with the boat's wake behind us, we left the wilderness and made our way back to Whittier.

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In Whittier, we were met by the owner of the Kayak rental center and he transported us back to the warehouse which was across town - about 5 minutes away from the marina. After sorting out our gear once more, returning our rental equipment, and rediscovering soap in the outhouse, we went back to the marina to settle up with Captain Mike. In his café/shop/office, we also bought souvenir maps, drinks, and a snack. We were on our way back to the real world now. Next we headed for the showers at the harbor master's building – and that felt pretty good after 10 days of roughing it. After showering, we rushed towards the tunnel, and in the nick of time, made it through as one of the last cars.

On the way back to Anchorage, we stopped again to watch the Beluga whales and then at Andy and Wendy’s friend's house in Bird Creek. We made one more stop to pick up sandwiches before Andy and Wendy dropped us off at the airport. Check-in involved moving items between bags to redistribute weight, and then we headed to the gate (without seat assignments). The flight was completely full and a little bit hectic. We also found out that some recent volcanic activity in the Aleutian Islands was blowing ash and causing quite a bit of disruption. Fortunately we got good seats and left Anchorage on time. Brad, whose flight was after ours, wasn’t so lucky.

After a night of traveling we arrived back home and began adjusting back to normal life.

09 September 2008

Alaska - Day 9

Day 9 was to be our last full day of padding. After the mammoth day we’d put in on Day 8, it was on all of our minds that we only had to paddle 12.5 miles in order to reach the 100 mile mark. We packed up camp at Pakenham Point and loaded our boats for the last time.

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As usual, the tide was going out as we were preparing to pack up. So to load our boats, we carried them closer to the water and placed them on log rafters to keep them off the sharp rocks and barnacles while we shoved all our gear through the hatches and into the far reaches of the compartments. We were all feeling like there was stuff missing from our individual assortment of bags which we could only attribute to all the food we’d eaten over the past week. The sun was out in full force and made the process of packing the boats hot work.

The plan for the day was to cross College Fjord, then head south into Esther Passage, before returning to “Boat Beach”, the same beach we’d started from and where Captain Mike was scheduled to pick us up from the next day.

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While making the 2 mile crossing across the fjord, the hot, sunny weather gradually turned cloudier and we even felt some spots of rain. We saw a lot of fish jumping during the crossing, which seemed like a good sign for those hoping to land one. After we completed the crossing, we soon found a lunch spot, close to the same spot where we’d been on earlier in the week when we’d been heading in the opposite direction. Andy and Brad both got out their fishing rods, but fishing from shore proved fruitless.

After lunch it started raining as we made our way across to a small bay that looked like an interesting feature on the map. We found a large group of fish that were jumping (video here) and Brad got out his fishing rod to try his luck. There were a few close calls, but the fish all managed to work their way off the hook before they could be reeled in. Then he landed a big one, and with Brad holding his rod with both hands, the fish started pulling his kayak along... fortunately Andy and Wendy where close by with the net to help him out.

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We continued on our way and after stopping at a stream to replenish our water, we reached the entrance to Esther Passage. Fresh bear tracks were seen once again. We began paddling into the pass to clock up our mileage before turning around and heading to the pick-up beach which was just around the next point. I think we where all getting a bit tired at this point and I was being asked with increasing frequency to check my GPS to see how many miles we’d done. Eventually we reached the turn around point from which point we would safely paddle a total of over 100 miles by the time the day was over.

It was properly raining by the time we reached the fjord again. The passage had been sheltered and the water relatively calm. In comparison, the conditions in the fjord were not. We needed to make our way around the point to the beach where we were going to spend the night, but we faced large waves and torrential rain. Andy and Wendy were a good distance ahead and led the way. In rough water you don’t want the waves to hit your boat side-on as they could easily tip (or flip) you over that way. For this reason, and due to the rough water and large waves, we had to paddle out in a straight line (almost perpendicular to the waves) into the fjord a good distance before making a 90 degree turn in the direction we actually wanted to go in. Even so, we were in rough water and it only takes one big wave to catch you unaware before you and your boat are upside down in icy, cold, stormy water. Erin, Brad, and I kept in close proximity as the rain got heaver and we made our way slowly around the point.

The rain was heavy and wet, and the waves were crashing against the stones on the beach when we arrived. As soon as I was out of my boat, I rushed under a close-by tree to put on my full set of heavy-duty rain gear. Then we scrambled to secure the boats, before going about setting up camp. We roped up the large black tarps between trees to cover our tents, and the rain eased up. We retrieved some firewood we’d stashed to start a fire as the rain eased some more. After dinner we tried to dry off by the fire before turning-in for our last night in the wilderness.

08 September 2008

Alaska - Day 8

Our 8th day on the water brought our 3rd morning of sunshine and it was spectacular! Andy and I were the first out of our tents and were lucky enough to spot a loan whale cruising by our campsite. We only caught two brief glimpses as the whale surfaced twice for air before diving deep. Unfortunately, not enough time to get our fellow campers out of bed.

Our campsite on Pakenham Point was one of the best. It boasted unbelievable 360º views, an endless supply of firewood, and smooth rocks perfect for tent sites and lounging around the fire. It was also the perfect place from which to mount a day trip to Harriman Fjord, a fjord further to the west and home to Harriman glacier, Barry glacier, and Cascade glacier – just to name a few. We enjoyed a leisurely and delicious breakfast and then prepared for a day trip up to Harriman Fjord.

After paddling almost 3.5 miles into a stiff wind, we stopped at a small, sun-warmed beach for a bio-break. We hadn’t planned on staying for lunch, but the beach was very comfortable and after the passing wake of a tour boat caused some excitement and led to me having one wet foot, we decided to stay for lunch. Our relaxing lunch on the warm beach almost turned into an even more relaxing nap, but another tour boat zoomed by and we rushed to get the boats into the water before the waves from the wake arrived.

We reached the fjord and turned into the shorter arm toward Barry glacier. There was a lot of activity in this area – glacial, animal, and human. Though not as large as Harvard, Barry glacier was much more active with near continuous calving. Along with its roar of thunder, every fallen piece of ice set off a ripple of waves. When we entered the arm, we spotted three porpoises making their way through the ice and Dan headed off in pursuit. As we watched all of the activity, a helicopter flew into the fjord and along the glacier. What a way to put things in perspective! The helicopter looked like a tiny red toy compared to the dramatic face of the glacier.

Another group of kayakers was camped on the beach next to Barry glacier and we headed in that direction as it was the only good option for a much needed bio-break. From the sandy beach, we had an excellent view of the falling ice and surging waves and had to plan our departure accordingly to miss some of the bigger swells. As we were headed back out of the fjord, a porpoise came up right next to Dan’s kayak! Incredible!

When we started back, we had already paddled nine miles, so we knew it was going to be a long trip back to camp. As we headed out of the fjord, a storm came in over the mountains. Very quickly it became dark and soon after it started to rain. We pulled on our rubber rain gear and began the nine mile paddle back to camp. Our good weather charm held and the storm blew over quickly. Within an hour the sky had started to clear but it remained windy and the water was choppy. After a quick stop at the lunch beach to refill on water, we paddled the final three miles to camp.

What a day! We had paddled a total of 18.5 miles, but happily came home to a warm, comfortable, and mostly dry campsite with more dry wood than we knew what to do with. We quickly got a fire going, and before we knew it, we were happily eating lentil soup and warming our toes by the fire. Not a bad way to end an epic day…….

02 September 2008

Alaska - Day 7

Incredibly, the morning of day seven greeted us with more sunshine and crystal clear views in every direction. Harvard and Yale glaciers were clearly visible at the upper end of the Fjord and Wellesley glacier towered over our campsite. You could still hear the occasional rumble as ice from the glaciers fell down the steep slopes and into the water.

We took our time enjoying breakfast and packing up camp. By the time we were ready to begin loading the boats, it was well on its way to low tide. While this campsite had beautiful views, it also had a long flat, rocky beach and as the tide went out the waterline moved farther and farther from camp. This wouldn’t have been so bad if it had been a nice clean, rocky beach, but this beach was covered in sharp rocks, covered in even sharper barnacles topped off with a nice slimy coating of seaweed and sea scum. In other words, not the best place to pile up gear and pack boats. With this in mind, Andy suggested an alternate approach – we could pack the boats near camp and then gently carry them down to the water. This is not generally advised as fiber glass kayaks are very fragile, but by placing straps under the heaviest sections of the boat and lifting at four points, it is somewhat less precarious. Unfortunately, this does not make the gear or the boats weigh any less, and when the boats are fully packed, they are heavy. In the long run, this approach made packing the boats much easier, but moving them down to the water…. Ugh!

Once we did finally make it on to the water, we set off at a leisurely pace heading south. Midway through the morning, Andy unveiled his morning construction project – a kayak sail! Dad and Dan quickly joined in and rafted up with the double to create a kayak trimaran. I paddled alongside because the sailing endeavor clearly required photo documentation.

Unfortunately, it was not a very windy day, so the sailing speed (1-3mph) barely surpassed the speed of the tidal current (1-3mph). During lunch, the engineering team made some modifications to the sail and a second attempt was made. For a moment, it almost felt like the wind would cooperate and the sailors would coast off down the Fjord, but alas the day remained hot, sunny, and calm.

We spent the afternoon paddling on calm water into the hot sun. As it moved into late afternoon, we began thinking about where we would stop for the night. We had already gone about 10 miles, and pretty quickly, we decided to continue making our way to Pakenham Point - another 5 miles down the Fjord. We were making good time and figured that we could get there in another hour and a half to two hours. It might have ended up taking a little bit longer, but it was worth it!

We found a beautiful campsite on a long rocky peninsula that juts out into the Sound at Pakenham point. Everyone was a bit tired out after our 14.9 mile paddle - it was after all our longest day yet - but we were also getting pretty good at setting up camp and we had plenty of water with us (in the form of glacial ice). So it wasn't long before we were all relaxing around a roaring fire and enjoying tasty black bean soup followed by biscuits, tea, and bed......

30 August 2008

Alaska - Day 6

On our sixth day in Prince William Sound, we awoke to a beautiful, sunny morning with breathtaking glacial views in every direction. Camped on the east side of the fjord, we could see up to Yale glacier, across to Harvard glacier, and along the row of colleges on the opposite side of the fjord. The mountains that had previously been shrouded in clouds were now in full view and it almost felt like we had stepped into a magnificent picture.

We packed up camp in the hot sunshine and prepared to explore the Harvard arm of College Fjord. As we prepared to set off, we listened to the rolling boom of thunder in the distance. It sounded like a thundercloud was looming around the bend, but this thunder had a different source. When pieces of ice crash off the surroundings glaciers and tumble down the icy slopes, the resulting noise echoes across the Fjord creating the sound of thunder. This phenomenon is sometimes referred to as “white thunder” and is often so loud that you look around in alarm expecting to see a massive chunk of glacier abruptly crumbling into the water. In fact, the opposite is usually true. With respect to the size of the glaciers, most (but not all) of the crumbling pieces of ice are quite small, and because sound travels more slowly than light, by the time you hear the thunderous boom, the event that caused it is over leaving you to wonder about the dramatic show you missed.

We set off on glassy water and slowly made our way into Harvard arm. After a thunderous crash off to the the left, we heard a distant voice shout "Wow!", and through binoculars we where then able to make out another group of kayakers. They were 2 miles away across the fjord and this was as close as they got. It was also the first time in almost a week that we'd seen another group of people. We stopped on a rocky, sun-warmed beach for lunch where we had a wide-open view of Harvard glacier and could watch (and listen) to the activity along the face. Harvard Glacier is massive. It stretches over 1.5 miles wide and towers hundreds of feet above the water. It is the second largest glacier in Prince William Sound and it is an awesome sight.

During lunch, we had decided to go to a point about 1 mile from the face of the glacier and then traverse across the fjord to the west side of the arm. As we drew closer to the glacier, the wind picked up dramatically and the waves swept out from the face of the glacier pushing back against our lightweight boats as the thunderous roar of ice falling into water continued. Despite the noise and drama, we actually saw very little ice calve off the glacier face, but it was an impressive site nonetheless.

After Harvard, we continued along past the other collegiate glaciers – Baltimore, Smith, Bryn Mawr, Vassar and Wellesley. On this side of the fjord, we noticed another line dividing the cloudy, cold glacial water from the (slightly) warmer, salty sound water. With the wind behind us we made good time. Late in the afternoon, we decided to head for a small bay in front of Wellesley where a long spit looked like a promising location for camp. However when we arrived at the foot of Wellesley glacier, the enclosed bay was no longer enclosed. Luckily, the camping prospects still looked good!

Once we had the boats unloaded, Dan and I set off to find water. We walked toward the glacier and found nothing but dry stream beds. We turned around and set off in the other direction, but still we found nothing but dry stream beds. On the way back to camp, we came across some grounded icebergs and Dan had the good idea of carrying a chunk of the ice back to use for water. This was a good solution, but it can take awhile for glacial ice to melt, so while Andy, Wendy, and I went about setting up camp and preparing dinner, Dad and Dan got in the double kayak and set off on a half mile paddle across the bay on an expedition for fresh water.

All seemed like it was going according to plan until we realized that almost an hour had passed and the water crew had not returned. With binoculars, we scoured the opposite shore looking for any sign of the two-man kayak, but could not find anything that resembled a boat or a person. We began to wonder where they had ended up in their quest for water and what trouble they could have encountered along the way…... Just when we were starting to get really worried, we spotted them paddling back across the bay. They arrived with plenty of water and luckily had experienced nothing more troublesome than some seriously vicious mosquitoes!

By the time the water crew returned, it was time for a late dinner (delicious Thai rice with vegetables and extra portions for everyone) and our usual assortment of quality biscuits with tea. It had been a long and very satisfying day but also a tiring one and it was starting to get dark, so we made our way to bed to rest up for another day on the water.

24 August 2008

Alaska - Day 5

On the morning of the fifth day something unusual happened: Erin and I were the first out of our tents. We'd woken to the sound of rain outside, and inside, our tent. The rain had started early in the morning and by about 8am it was dripping through the tent onto my sleeping bag and sleeping pad. Apparently this had been observed by Erin for some time before it came to my attention. Anyway, I hastily got my sleeping bag and sleeping pad out of the way before they got any wetter.

After we put on our rain gear and exited the tent I began working to start a fire, which was especially challenging this morning with the additional humidity and extra wet wood. After seeing how slowly the wood was catching, I decided a fire-starter was in order to speed things up. With a somewhat smoky fire started, we spent most of the morning at camp sitting out the rain. We also decided not to move camp on this day, and instead planed on spending another night in the same spot. This was in part due to the rain and in part because it would also give us an opportunity to explore Yale glacier, before heading over to Harvard glacier on the following day.

Morning Fog
By the afternoon the rain had cleared and it seemed like some blue sky might even make an appearance. After lunch we left camp and set-off in the direction of Yale. We noticed a lot of seagull activity a short way into the paddle, we couldn’t work out what all the fuss was about, but it could have been due to some dolphins that we saw in the distance.

As we paddled towards Yale glacier, we approached a long skinny island which could have been a medial moraine (rock formed in the middle of two glacier flows). The island is now home to many seagulls and there was a lot of squawking as we approached the rookery. At about this point, we also noticed a strange line in the water. The line went from the end of the island to the shore. It appeared to be a division between the cold water flowing slowly around one side of the island and colder water running around the other, anyway it was strange.

It’s also worth noting that at this point we were entering uncharted territory. The maps we had with us (and also Google Maps) shows the right-hand side of the glacier face extending out just past the end of the long skinny island. In actual fact, the glacier face has receded several miles since the USGS survey from which most of the maps are based. You can see the difference by comparing the “Map” view with the more recent “Satellite” view in Google Maps. It was quite incredible to be in a location that had changed so much from (relatively) recent maps we had in hand. You would be forgiven for thinking the map and location where not the same. Add to that the fact that my GPS also thought we where padding on land, and it was all a bit confusing.

Another geographical aspect that we found interesting in this area was how the flow rate of the water was different between the right-hand of the island (that we were on) and the left-hand side of the island. I can only speculate that the glacier had formed deeper channel on the other side, and the change in features would somewhat support that.

We paddled the length of the long skinny island and found ourselves in a field of ice chunks. It became more difficult to maneuver our boats without hitting them, even though we’d slowed down to an idle float. This was the most ice we’d seen so far on the trip. The sound you hear when the hollow fiberglass boat you’re sitting in collides with one of these big, heavy and sharp frozen lumps is not very peasant. The sound varies depending on how you hit them – sometimes it’s a thud, bump, or crack, and other times they make an unpleasant gouging sound. I was starting to have titanic thoughts and after a few bumps. I had to make sure my feet weren’t starting to feel wet from the icy cold water. I was also convincing myself that since my boat was made up of three separate compartments, I’d probably be able to make it to shore – fortunately it didn’t come to that, and my feet stayed dry.

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We stopped paddling towards the face of Yale glacier at a point where we were still about 2 miles away. It was close enough for us as you really don’t want to get too close to glaciers in tippy little boats. After admiring the view for sometime (I could have stayed there for hours), we turned around and headed towards short for a break by a river. We turned around instead of circumnavigating the long skinny island because the faster flowing water on the other side made it too dangerous with all the chunks of ice.

The paddle from Yale glacier back to camp was amazing. It was one of the best parts of the trip for me and is certainly an experience that I hope I’ll never forget. It started off as a relaxed paddle into the middle of the bay, and then over to get a closer look at some otters resting on the icebergs. Then the sun came out and I had blue sky above, with mountains all around. I was just slowly floating along in my boat, soaking it all in. As if by magic, the ice was soon all around me. As the tide turned I became surrounded by it. The only sound I could hear was that cracking, popping, and occasional ripples made by the ice. It was unbelievable. And wow, it was perfect.

Strangely it was about 7pm at this point although it felt like 2pm as the sun was still high in the middle of the sky. We regrouped near and iceberg that had several otters laying on it. They were too busy snoozing in the sun to notice our approach. We got pretty close before all of a sudden, all at once, they slid off the ice and disappeared into the water below. It was quite a show.

On arriving back at camp, Erin and I walked to the near-by river to collect and filter water. We then enjoyed the sunset from our campsite on the beach where we had the view of the mountains and glaciers across the fjord. We noticed the clouds turning pink above Yale glacier as we enjoyed the most delicious pea soup I’ve ever tasted. As it got dark we sat be the fire and drank hot-chocolate supplemented with quality biscuits. Sometime shortly after midnight we turned in for the night and I promptly fell asleep. It had been a fantastic day.

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At this point we were more than half way though our trip. I took a lot of photos on this day. You can see a selection of some of my favorite photos from Day 5, on Flickr..

Here's a map showing our location and paddling track for Day 5. It's best viewed in Google Earth or directly in Google Maps (link opens in a new window).

20 August 2008

Alaska - Day 4

We woke up on Day 4 to view the mountains around us:

Our Tent
After breakfast we began the process of preparing to leave Coghill Point and head further north up College Fjord towards Harvard and Yale glaciers. Out of the dozen or so glaciers we saw on the trip, these two are easily the biggest in the area. We packed up our gear, filtered some water into our water bottles, loaded our boats and waited for the tide to reach them. Unfortunately Andy’s WAG based technique for predicting where the tide will be when we were ready to go had let us down:
Boat Placement Formula: can be calculated by the rule of 12ths (or was it 14ths?) and by considering the following factors: low tide time, low tide level, prior high tide line, predicted high tide level, high tide time, offset from tide chart origin, current time, amount of supplies eaten, amount of gear to load, rate of gear loading, beach terrain and the prevailing weather conditions.
In any case, we had about an hour to wait before the water reached our boats. After casting off, we briefly entered Coghill Bay before making our way around Coghill Point. We encountered some head-wind, and after a couple of hours it was time for some lunch. At this point we'd paddled about 2.5 miles and ended up 0.5 miles away from the campsite we'd left - needless to say we hadn't been paddling in a straight line (see the GPS track).

After lunch we continued paddling up the east side of the fjord. The fjord itself is over 2 miles wide and is popular with cruise ships, which is why we stayed on one side of it. We saw lots of sea otters during this part of the trip, many with their young. Every now and then one close by would pop it's head out of the water and swim on it's back while gazing at you with slight puzzlement, as if they were wondering what the heck you're doing paddling past in that fiberglass boat. It didn't usually last for long though, before they lost interest or you would get too close and they would plop back under, sometimes with a splash, not usually to be seen again.

It was on this day that we also started to see our first Icebergs floating along in the water beside our boats. Their frequency increased gradually, and as we paddled further, we began to see more of them. They came in all shapes and sizes and it has since occurred to me how remarkable each of these chunks of ice is. Ignoring the several thousand years that the ice was in the glacier before a large chunk calves (falls) off and crashes into the ocean, it then picks up the pace and embarks on a continually melting, splitting, rotating journey as each unique piece changes shape until it is eventually absorbed by the ocean. Each berg appears to have a life of its own, moving at its own speed and floating its own course - probably due to the differing shapes and wind resistance of each. Not only that, but different pieces make different sounds too - cracking and popping as you get close. But you have to be careful not to get too close (especially to the big ones), as it is an fact that due to the differing density of salt-water and pure ice, that only 10% of the volume of an iceberg is above the water – remember the titanic. This also means that if you're near a one that only stands several feet out of the water, and a small piece happens to break off, causing the balance of the resulting mass to adjust, there can be quite sudden movement in the water beneath. There's also black ones, and spotty ones... and I'm sure I could go on to write much more about how fascinating I found icebergs to be up close, but for now, let's move on.

It was getting late when from about a mile away we spotted our general destination. As we got closer we selected a location that looked like it would make the best camping spot. Out campsite requirements were something like: a suitable beach for kayak entry and exit, near fresh (non-salt) water source (but not too close due to bears), with level ground for tents above the tide line. We also completed our now-regular routine of unloading, setting-up camp, locating water, firewood, preparing and eating some dinner (a tasty pesto pasta with fresh zucchini imported from Connecticut) before cleaning up and having hot drinks and quality biscuits around the fire. As it happened, the campsite we'd selected for this night was in an especially scenic location with amazing views all around, however I think we were all too tired that night to really appreciate it.

Here's a map showing our location and paddling track for Day 4. It's best viewed in Google Earth or directly in Google Maps (link opens in a new window).

18 August 2008

Alaska - Day 3

We survived our first night in the wild without any visits from the local bears, and after a needed lie-in, began making preparations for the day. Breakfast was a relaxed affair with cereal for the vegetarians and a gourmet, fresh salmon omelet for everyone else. After cleaning up, we packed everything and prepared for our first challenge – loading the boats….

We hoped that all the gear would fit in the boats, but we hadn’t done a dry run. So we moved the boats down to the “where we thought the tide would be in two hours” line (superbly identified by Andy) and began distributing gear. After some careful stuffing, rearranging, and gear swapping, everything was loaded and ready to go – and just in time too as the water was beginning to lap at the boats!

We set off on the rising tide heading north into College Fjord. Because we had a late morning and it took a couple of hours to load the boats, we only paddled for an hour or so before stopping on a small island for lunch. The morning had been misty, so it was exciting to see a patch of blue sky off at the far end of the Fjord where we were headed. Just as we were cleaning up lunch, Wendy appeared with a bundle of store-bought firewood. She had found it tucked away under a fallen tree. Either forgotten or stashed, we decided to wrap it up in a tarp and load it on a kayak because even with blue skies in the distance, you never know when it might start to pour in Prince William Sound.

As we continued north after lunch, we kept a sharp eye out for bears and eagles. We didn’t see any bears, but we did see at least half dozen eagles. Eagles like to perch on dead tree limbs and there happen to be quite a lot of those lining this section of the Sound. In 1964, the Good Friday Earthquake, the most powerful recorded earthquake in the U.S., reverberated throughout southern Alaska and caused sections of the shore in part of Prince William Sound to drop 8-10 feet. This dramatic change meant that many trees were now in tidal zones. While this killed the trees, hundreds of them still stand along the shore.

Mid-afternoon we heard roaring water off to our right and decided to investigate. Behind a spit of land, we discovered the source – a massive waterfall tumbling into the Sound! After we had enjoyed the waterfall for a bit, we found a side creek where we were able to load up on fresh water. We were almost out of the original water that we had brought with us from Whittier and knew we would need water for cooking and hot drinks later that day.

After the waterfall detour we continued paddling through rain showers and fog well into the evening. We were aiming to camp near Coghill Point. After hours of paddling and having traveled 13.4 miles, we finally approached the potential camping spot, we noticed a disturbance on the beach. A dozen seagulls were making a tremendous racket but it wasn’t until we landed that we saw what all the fuss was about. Someone had killed a seal and very recently by the looks of things. The head and guts were left on the beach and we later found a pair of abandoned gloves. Beyond the beach, we also discovered fresh bear poop and plenty of bear trails. Despite all this, it was quite a nice campsite with plenty of space for three tents and a kitchen area plus fresh water nearby so we decided to stay.

We went about the process of setting up camp. First, we had to decide where to put the tents. We were on a flat grassy area criss-crossed with bear trails, so we ended up flattening some grass and setting the tents up around (but not on) the bear trails in the hope that the bears would just walk on by.

We (or at least I) were starving, so we hustled to make a late diner. After a tasty dinner (veggies burgers) and biscuits (McVite’s HobNobs), Dan and I made our way to bed. Not long after going to bed, one of the fishing vessels we had paddled past during the day also decided to set up camp in near Coghill Point – in the bay! The noisy boat ran its generator all night and had a massive spotlight perched atop the cockpit which they kept on all night. And as you may know, sound and light carry well across wide open spaces...

Here's a map showing our paddling track for Day 3. It's best viewed in Google Earth or directly in Google Maps (link opens in a new window).